Friday, 29 September 2017


Our destination for the year.  We arrive just ahead of another NW Gale.  Spent a few days getting the boat decommissioned, then fly home via Vienna and London.

The marina at dawn.

Evening, with storm clouds on the horizon...

...they thicken...

...and thicken...

...and thicken.

On the rack.

High and dry.

All wrapped up and no place to go.


Nice marina, with a small private beach.  Our first visit from an EU Customs this season.  They were very friendly and were obviously training a new hire.  Very little English, so communication was slow, until a local boater stepped in to translate.  They took our papers, but said not to worry as there was nothing wrong.  They returned later with a document that effectively gives our boat another 18 months before we have to take it out of the EU again, to avoid having to import it.

A German boater went by with a foot pump in his hand.  I asked him if he was looking for parts.  He said yes, but the store had no parts and he was going to have to buy a new pump.  I had the part he needed and was happy to give it to him. He returned with a great bottle of wine.  Sandra later saw it for sale.  It cost way more then the part.

Our most expensive marina of the season at 55 Euro per night.  We stay one night.

No pictures, but we will likely return next year in off season, as it is a very nice marina.


A lovely anchorage, but exposed to winds from the NW and N.  We enjoy three days of light winds and warm temperatures.  Our last swimming of the season.

Lovely public beaches, busy by day and deserted by nightfall.  Tiny marina, for shallow draft boats.  One restaurant, one bar and tiny convenience store.

The area was an iron mining and smelting area for centuries.  Slag was meters high, covering an Etruscan Necropolis.  The area is now a national heritage site, with an interpretation center and tours.

The tiny marina.

Warning reminds us of home in BC.

We climb to the top of the "nearby" hill.

Passat II in the anchorage.

Tiny church on the beach, still in use.

Graves cut out of the rock face.

Inside a stand alone tomb.

The sun sets on our last night at anchor for the season.


We originally planned to stop at one of the anchorages at Capo Castello.  The ones on the S side were too crowded, the one on the N side had poor holding ans was too exposed to the wakes of the parade of passing ships and power boats.  So we carried on to Portoferraio.

Nelson is reported to call Portoferraio "the best small harbor" and it is very protected, with very good holding.  However, he did not have to put up with the constant ferry wake from dawn to after dusk and, when the wind was from the N their exhaust fumes.  We spent as much time as possible ashore.

Fortunately there is much to see.  Remains of Roman Villas.  Fortifications built by Cosmo Medici (Cosmopolitan is derived from his name).  Two small palaces occupied by Napoleon Bonaparte, while he was exiled here (one he designed and supervised the construction).

The main Roman Villa overlooks the harbor, but not much is left of the structure.

Cosmo Medici wanted to add a maritime empire to his family's considerable holdings.  The dream did not expand much beyond Elba.

The town rises steeply from the harbor.
The inner harbor from the Medici fort.
One of the many ferries.

Overlooking Napoleon's residence and the second fort

Napoleon's town residence.

Napoleon's summer residence.